Vivienne Tam presented her Autumn/Winter 2016 fashion and style collection on February 15, 2015 at 7:00pm in the Arc at Moynihan Station during New York Fashion Week. The collection is inspired by a timeless cultural dreamland of styles that is a mélange of influences from different cultures spanning the Chinese Western frontier to Central Asia and the Caucuses, along the new economic and cultural trade route comprising the modern day ‘Silk Road’. Drawing upon indigenous cultures from Xinjiang, Kazakhstan, all the way to Turkey and Russia, this culture-bridging approach makes for a harmonious mosaic that is the main theme of the collection. The collection features patterns and patchwork derived from traditional talismans – from protective amulets expressing a mother’s love symbolized by triangles but contemporized on techno-mesh, to caroqs with evil eye patchwork made from recycled fabric, to embroidered dowry suzanis and even a nod to American quilts. (Photos by Patrick McMullan)
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Embroideries of parasol flowers and medallions are rendered on luxe textiles such as ultra-suede, wool, leather, silk and sequins, as well as patchwork leather, lightly quilted jacquards and needle punched fabrics. Chunky knits and modified ‘sweatshirts’ reminiscent of hand-crafted tapestries were paired with lamé pleated skirts on a fresh take on ancient patterns and ikat textiles. The collection embodies a contemporary contextualization of traditional shapes that are characteristic of various cultures, expressed in relaxed silhouettes, jacquard rendered capes, robe-like coats, leather-trimmed coats, long tunics over striped oversized trousers, gaucho pants and dropped shoulders. The palette is a rich, earth toned one featuring deep burgundies, siennas, reds and greens, as well as deep blacks and burnished pewter and bronze metallics.